You’ve successfully grown a strong crop of garlic, and now harvest time has arrived. Knowing exactly when to pull the bulbs and how to cure them properly will make a big difference in how long they last. With the right timing and a little care, your garlic can stay fresh for months.
Garlic (Allium sativum) is a must-have in the kitchen. From soups and stews to sauces and dressings, it’s hard to imagine cooking without it. It’s also one of the easiest crops to grow in a vegetable garden. It sprouts early in spring, asks for very little attention, and rewards you with full bulbs underground.
When harvested at the right moment and cured correctly, garlic stores beautifully through winter. With proper handling, you can enjoy your own homegrown garlic long after the garden season ends.
Garlic is one of my favorite crops to grow, second only to tomatoes. After more than 15 years of planting it, I can say it’s mostly hands-off while growing. But at harvest time, giving it a bit of extra care can extend its storage life by several months.
Here’s everything you need to know about harvesting and curing garlic successfully.
When Is Garlic Ready to Harvest?
Your garlic bed may be full of tall green leaves, and you’re probably eager to see what’s beneath the soil. The timing of harvest is partly observation and partly experience.
Garlic is usually ready when the long leaves start turning yellow and browning from the tips downward. A reliable guideline is to harvest when about one-third to one-half of the plant has turned yellow or brown.
Do not wait until the entire plant is fully brown and collapsed. Once the plant decays too much, the bulb becomes more vulnerable and may not store as long.
If harvested at the right time, the plant should still look fairly sturdy. The leaves will show a mix of green, yellow, and brown, and the stem should still feel firm.
If you wait too long and the plant is completely dry and brown, the garlic will still be edible, but it may not keep well in storage.
In most regions, garlic is ready no later than the end of July. In cooler climates, it may mature later. In warmer areas, harvest can happen as early as mid to late June.
If you’re unsure and it’s mid-July with mostly green leaves, gently brush soil away from the top of a bulb and feel it. The bulb should be full, firm, and clearly divided into distinct cloves. If it’s still small, cover it back up and check again in a week.
Keep in mind that each variety usually matures at about the same time within its group, but different varieties can be ready at different times.
Digging Up Garlic the Right Way
Never grab the stem and pull garlic straight out of the ground. The bulb and stem can easily snap, causing damage.
Instead, use a shovel to loosen the soil beneath the roots. If you planted garlic in rows, insert a spade at a steep angle well below the bulb to get under the root system. Gently lift the soil upward. You may need to work around each plant to free it completely.
Once the soil is loose, hold the plant just above the bulb and carefully lift it out. If it doesn’t come easily, dig from another angle and loosen more soil.
Avoid using a garden fork, as the tines can pierce and damage the bulb.
If your garlic was planted in a tighter or checkerboard pattern, a hand shovel works better. Dig a wide circle around the bulb, loosening soil gradually, then lift gently.
Garlic roots can be surprisingly large and strong, so expect to loosen the soil several times before the plant comes free.
Labeling Different Varieties
If you grow more than one variety, separate and label them immediately after harvest. Many varieties look very similar once dug up.
A simple method is tying colored string around the stem close to the bulb. Make a note somewhere of which color represents which variety. After curing and trimming, you can also mark the stem with a permanent marker.
This step is especially important if you plan to save bulbs for seed next season.
Preparing Garlic for Curing
At this stage, resist the urge to wash or trim the plants.
If soil clings to the roots, gently tap off the excess. If scapes are still attached, cut them off, but leave the rest of the plant intact.
The entire plant, including leaves and roots, should remain attached during curing.
Where to Cure Garlic
Garlic needs good airflow while curing so the outer layers dry properly without causing the inner bulb to rot.
Keep the plants:
• Out of direct sunlight
• Protected from rain
• In a well-ventilated area
A shaded outdoor space works well. Some gardeners lay garlic on screens and move them under cover if rain threatens. Others bundle plants loosely and hang them in an open shed or under a covered porch.
If hanging them, make sure there is enough air circulation and that temperatures are not extremely high.
Can Garlic Be Cured Indoors?
It can, but it should be in a space like a garage or shed rather than inside your living space. Garlic curing can be quite pungent.
Make sure there is good airflow. High heat combined with humidity is not ideal for curing.
How Long Does Curing Take?
Curing time depends on weather conditions.
In dry, moderately warm weather, garlic may cure in about two weeks. In hot and humid conditions, it can take longer for the skins to dry completely.
How to Tell When Garlic Is Fully Cured
For hardneck garlic, cut the stem about 4 inches above the bulb and look at the inside of the stem. It should be solid white with no green growth or hollow areas.
The outer papery layers around the bulb should feel dry and firm. After brushing off soil and removing any loose outer layers, the bulb should appear bright and clean, with intact wrapping.
The bulb should feel firm and solid when squeezed gently.
Cleaning and Trimming
Once curing is complete:
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Trim the roots close to the base of the bulb.
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Cut the stem to about 3 inches above the bulb.
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Remove any loose outer layers, but leave intact, protective skins in place.
Now the bulbs are ready for storage.
Sorting Your Garlic
Not every bulb will be perfect. It’s helpful to sort them based on condition and purpose.
For long-term storage, choose bulbs with completely intact wrappers and no exposed cloves. The stem should be firm and undamaged.
For seed garlic, select large, healthy bulbs with big cloves. Large cloves generally produce larger bulbs next season.
Any bulbs with damaged wrappers or exposed cloves should be used first in cooking rather than stored long term.
How Long Does Cured Garlic Last?
Properly cured and stored garlic can last several months. Some bulbs can remain usable into late winter.
For best storage:
• Keep bulbs in a cool, dark, dry place
• Ideal temperature is around 50–55°F
• Store in an open basket or mesh bag for airflow
• Avoid sealed plastic containers
Softneck varieties generally store longer than hardneck types, sometimes by a month or more. However, with careful curing and storage, hardneck garlic can still last 5 to 7 months.
Garlic is one of the most rewarding crops to grow. It requires very little maintenance during the season and offers a generous harvest at the end. With proper harvesting and curing techniques, you can enjoy your homegrown garlic throughout the winter.
